Costs for India’s prized Darjeeling tea have tumbled this yr after patrons together with Tetley-owner Tata slashed purchases over a regulatory spat about mixing totally different leaves, with growers warning {that a} monetary disaster is threatening the so-called “champagne” of brews.
Tea from Darjeeling in north-east India instructions a premium world wide for its aromatic aroma and delicate flavour. However costs have fallen 16 per cent thus far this season to Rs372.54 ($4.58) a kilogramme, in keeping with knowledge from the Tea Board of India, a authorities physique.
The drop in costs just isn’t the results of a sudden change in supply-and-demand, however a regulatory spat. Tata Consumer Products, usually the most important Darjeeling purchaser at round 18 per cent of provide, sharply scaled again purchases this yr, in keeping with officers and growers.
This got here after the Tea Board final yr launched guidelines limiting patrons from mixing odd teas with these resembling Darjeeling from the state of West Bengal, which carries a “Geographical Indication” tag designed to guard regional produce.
Consumers like Tata, the massive Indian conglomerate that owns manufacturers including Tetley and Teapigs, had beforehand blended Darjeeling with cheaper teas from Nepal in a few of its merchandise, these folks stated. The transfer had involved some growers, who lobbied for more durable guidelines to guard Darjeeling.
The Tea Board in October tweaked the regulation to as soon as once more enable mixing, so long as the end-product was not marketed as Darjeeling. It was significantly keen that Tata begin shopping for once more, in keeping with an official. Hindustan Unilever, the Indian subsidiary of the worldwide client items large and a rival of Tata, can be a big Darjeeling purchaser.
However growers worry that this yr’s sharp drop in value is simply accelerating the terminal decline of the business. Manufacturing of Darjeeling has trended decrease on account of competitors from cheaper rivals, resembling Nepal, and local weather change, with risky climate hurting crops.

Sujit Patra, secretary of the Indian Tea Affiliation, stated costs had fallen “far much less” than the price of manufacturing.
“There’s a necessity to indicate to the world that that is essentially the most premium tea that India produces,” stated Saurav Pahari, the Tea Board’s deputy chair. “We hope that the massive patrons will return to purchasing Darjeeling. They set the benchmark for the worth.”
Tata declined to reply questions on whether or not it had lowered Darjeeling tea purchases, or whether or not it deliberate to start out shopping for once more.
It stated that Nepalese tea constituted lower than 1 per cent of its whole procurement for the Indian market and it didn’t straight import the tea. Tata stated it at all times acted “inside the guardrails of the legal guidelines of the land and any laws governing our enterprise”.
“We regularly look to enhance our tea blends in step with client preferences throughout areas, model positioning and our product growth,” the corporate stated in a press release. “We proceed to stay a powerful supporter of the Darjeeling tea business.”
Whereas growers say the Darjeeling tea business’s troubles return a long time, many hint the present disaster to 2017. Manufacturing halved after protests by the area’s Gorkha ethnic group, which has lengthy demanded independence from West Bengal, closed tea plantations, forcing patrons to search out options.
Among the many greatest winners have been producers in neighbouring Nepal, whose tea has parallels with Darjeeling’s because of comparable local weather circumstances, however is cheaper to supply. Many patrons have ramped up purchases from Nepal as each manufacturing and demand for Darjeeling has fallen, with final yr’s 1,800 tonne harvest down 30 per cent since 2015.
Sparsh Agarwal, who runs Darjeeling’s Selim Hill property, stated that many native tea gardens have been struggling to outlive. “We’re on the verge of chapter,” he stated. “Within the subsequent 15 months, if I’m not capable of flip round Selim Hill we’re going to need to promote it.”
Others resembling Mohan Chirimar, who owns the Singtom Tea Property, stated that he anticipated Tata to renew purchases of Darjeeling now that the Tea Board’s rule had been overturned.
However Chirimar argued that the longer-term outlook for the business remained tough. The “macro degree points . . . haven’t been resolved as but and we don’t see any options in sight”.